Seattle is a popular destination for professional meetings -- if you
find yourself at a conference in the Emerald City, consider a 2-day extension
to explore the wonder of Mount St. Helens.
On May 18, 1980, North America learned that volcanoes can still roar
far louder than the cacophony of urban life.
Only 90 minutes south of Seattle, Mount St. Helens is today a living
reminder of nature's power. Yet the
views from highway curves and scenic pullouts simply don't suffice. Instead, make the most of your "few days
away" by taking the long, rocky climb to the volcano's summit -- the
crater's edge is literally breath-taking.
Subterranean -- North America's third longest lava tube offers accessible
spleunking as another unique adventure.
The gaping, magnificent crater
Nervous but excited, we began our climb to the rim of Mount St. Helens'
steaming crater at 5:00 am, headlamps charged with new batteries. As the sun rose during the first forested
mile, it unveiled the lush canopy of the Gifford Pinchot National Forest and
the national parks surrounding Mount Rainier and Mt St Helens. The forest opened as the scramble began, four
miles of challenging, boulder-strewn terrain but several hours later, we
reached the rim.
We were awestruck, lying on a steep ash covered slope staring into a
gaping, steaming, magnificent volcanic crater -- the experience of a lifetime.
As mid-day approached, the sun glared and the lack of shade became a
serious danger. We were relieved to have
made an early start, to have brought plenty of water, and to encounter several
snow fields which a offered slippery, fast descent. The final mile of forest was a sheltered
relief.
The 5-mile climb is not technical but is very strenuous, requiring
scrambling over rocky terrain while gaining 4,500 feet and ending at the
crater's rim. The climb typically takes
10-12 hours. Permits are required
year-round and advanced reservations are necessary April-October. Numbers are restricted to a maximum of 100
persons daily during the peak season of May-October, when permits cost $22/person
and must be printed at home. Camping at
Climber’s Bivouac, where the trailhead begins, is included in the permit fee – although
the nearby town of Cougar offers a handful of lodging options.
Subterranean Adventure
Caving -- also known as spelunking in North America -- is not a
particularly common sport and the lava tubes beneath Mt St Helen's offer a
unique opportunity for novices to get a taste the subterranean past-time. The unique lava tubes were formed over 1800
years ago as molten lava flowed under a hardened crust, eroding the rock and
soil underneath as it moved down the Lewis River valley. The dark tubes were first explored by a Scout
troop in the 1950s who attached the moniker -- the Ape Cave -- perhaps inspired
by the legend of Bigfoot.
Today, two routes of varying complexity are available for exploration. The upper cave requires scrambles over
boulder piles, a cliff ascent and a steep ladder out, while the lower cave
requires belly scrambling through small openings and a round-trip return. The caves' depth of darkness is otherworldly
and humbling, and the constant 42o chill is a stark contrast to the
seering sun on the volcano's rocky face.
The Ape Cave is open year round although the Headquarters Center is closed in the winter. During peak season,
the Center provides lantern rentals although visitors must each bring 2-3 additional
light sources and wear warm clothing and sturdy shoes. A recreation pass is required and no pets,
food, or alcohol are allowed in the cave.
Just a Few Days
Mount St. Helens is only a 2.5 hour drive from Seattle and is well worth
a short extension to a trip to the Pacific Northwest. The opportunity to get up close and personal
with an active volcano is a truly humbling experience and one that brings home nature's
wild magnificence.
Take time for life.
